General Health and Wellness in Cold Weather

Preventive care is crucial in the colder months. Schedule veterinary check-ups in the fall to catch any health issues that might worsen in cold weather. Vaccinations and deworming are important for both cats and dogs as they prepare to face the winter months.

At home, adjust your pet’s diet to account for increased energy expenditure in cold weather. Dogs and cats burn more calories to maintain body heat. Increase their food intake slightly, focusing on a balanced diet rich in carbohydrates and proteins. However, monitor their weight closely to avoid obesity.

Special Considerations for Cats in Winter

Many cats have access to the outdoors throughout the year. Their tolerance for cold weather varies based on breed, fur length, and health.

Cats with short fur or health issues should have limited outdoor exposure in winter to avoid respiratory problems like pneumonia or kidney infections. Outdoor cats generally grow thicker coats in winter, providing them with natural insulation. However, gradual acclimatization to cold temperatures is essential.

For those who worry about their cats at night, consider installing a cat flap for free movement. If that’s not an option, create a warm, insulated outdoor shelter with materials like polystyrene, straw, and blankets.

Be cautious about water bodies like ponds in winter. Thin ice can be a hazard, so consider fencing off these areas. Also, be careful with cat clothing or collars, as they can lead to accidents if the cat gets caught.

Winter Care for Dogs

Dogs, especially those that spend a lot of time outdoors, require specific care in winter. Apply protective ointments or balms to their paws to shield them from cold surfaces, ice, and harmful substances like road salt.

For active dogs or those involved in dog sports, consider special footwear like “valenki” boots to protect their paws. However, this might not be necessary for everyday walks in urban areas.

Keep your dog active and moving during walks to maintain warmth. For small, old, or thinly-coated dogs, invest in functional, warm clothing. Avoid letting your dog play with snowballs or sticks, as these can cause injuries or digestive problems. Prevent your dog from eating snow, which may contain harmful substances like road salt.

After walks, thoroughly clean your dog’s paws and check for injuries or trapped debris. Apply a soothing cream to keep their paws healthy. Avoid frequent baths in winter, as this can strip the skin of natural oils, reducing cold protection. Regular brushing is important to remove dead undercoat and maintain healthy skin and fur.

Creating a Comfortable Environment Indoors

Ensure your home is a warm, comfortable haven for your pets during winter. Provide extra bedding and blankets for them to snuggle into. Keep their sleeping area away from drafts and cold floors.

Consider using a humidifier if your home gets particularly dry in winter. Dry air can affect your pet’s skin and respiratory system.

Nutrition and Hydration

Proper nutrition is essential in winter. Provide a balanced diet rich in essential nutrients. Ensure continuous access to clean, unfrozen water to keep your pets well-hydrated.

Remember, winter care for pets goes beyond just keeping them warm. It’s about adjusting their entire care routine to ensure they stay healthy and comfortable throughout the season. Your attentive care will help your pets enjoy the winter months safely and happily.

Understanding the Risks of Barbecue Foods for Dogs

The temptation of grilled foods can be hard to resist for dogs, but it's crucial to understand why certain barbecue items are hazardous to them.

1. Bone Fragments: Leftover bones, especially from chicken, can splinter and cause intestinal blockages or punctures. This can lead to life-threatening situations requiring immediate veterinary attention.
2. Spicy and Seasoned Foods: Seasonings used in barbecue can upset a dog's digestive system. Ingredients like garlic, onions, and certain spices are toxic to dogs and can cause gastrointestinal distress.
3. High-Fat Content: Foods high in fat, like certain cuts of meat and sausages, can lead to pancreatitis in dogs, a painful and potentially dangerous inflammation of the pancreas.
4. Aujeszky's Disease: Also known as pseudorabies, this disease is transmitted to dogs through raw or undercooked pork. It affects the central nervous system and can be fatal.

How to Respond to Barbecue-Related Emergencies in Dogs

If your dog consumes hazardous barbecue food, quick action is necessary:

• For Bone Ingestion: Do not attempt to induce vomiting as this can cause further damage. Contact your vet immediately.
• For Gastrointestinal Distress: If your dog shows signs of distress after consuming spicy or high-fat foods, provide plenty of water and rest. If symptoms persist, consult your vet.
• For Suspected Aujeszky's Disease: This requires urgent veterinary attention. There's no cure, but early intervention can manage symptoms.

Preventive Measures During Barbecue Events

Prevention is key when it comes to keeping your dog safe during a barbecue.

• Secure the Grill Area: Keep your dog away from the grill. Hot surfaces and splattering grease can cause burns. 
• Safe Disposal of Leftovers: Dispose of bones and fatty leftovers securely to prevent your dog from scavenging.
• Distract Your Dog: Engage your dog with toys or a play session away from the grill area.
• Educate Guests: Inform your guests not to feed your dog any scraps. Instead, have dog-appropriate treats available.
• Regular Feeding: Feed your dog before the event starts to reduce their temptation to seek out food.
• Monitoring: Keep a watchful eye on your dog throughout the event to prevent any sneaky snacking.

Creating a Safe and Enjoyable Barbecue Experience for Your Dog

With some planning and vigilance, you can ensure a fun and safe barbecue experience for your dog.

• Set Up a Dog-Friendly Zone: Designate a safe area for your dog, equipped with water, shade, and their favorite toys.
• Consider a Dog-Sitter: If you're hosting a large event, consider having someone dedicated to watching your dog.
• After Barbecue Care: Post-barbecue, check your yard for any food remnants or hazardous items that might have been overlooked.

By understanding the risks and taking appropriate measures, you can enjoy the barbecue season with your furry friend in tow, ensuring they stay safe, healthy, and happy.

The Hidden Danger: Cars as Ovens

Dogs, beloved for their loyalty, often accompany their owners in cars, particularly in summer. However, this can lead to tragic outcomes. Inside a parked car, temperatures can soar above 50°C, rapidly inducing heatstroke and potentially causing circulatory system disorders in dogs.

Dogs and Temperature Regulation

Unlike humans who have sweat glands all over their bodies, dogs lack this mechanism for cooling down. They rely on their noses and panting to regulate body temperature. Factors such as breed, weight, skull shape, and fur length can affect how quickly a dog overheats.

Recognizing Heat Stroke in Dogs

It's crucial to recognize the signs of heat stroke in dogs, especially during summer. Symptoms include excessive panting, shallow breathing, very red mucous membranes, and staggering. Immediate cooling actions, such as finding shade and using a damp cloth, are essential.

Preventing Heat Stroke in Dogs

Prevention is key when it comes to protecting your dog from heat stroke. Avoid strenuous activities during peak heat hours and ensure they have access to cool, shaded areas. Adjust walks and exercise routines to cooler parts of the day.

Safe Car Travels with Your Dog

When traveling with your dog in summer, use air conditioning and avoid overcrowding the car. Plan regular breaks for your dog to drink and move around in a shaded area. Remember, the front passenger seat is not a safe place for your pet during travels.

The Fatal Mistake: Leaving a Dog in a Hot Car

Never leave your dog alone in a car during summer. Temperatures can reach extreme levels quickly, posing a severe risk to your pet's health. In extreme cases, even temperatures as low as 26°C can be dangerous for dogs.

What Can Passersby Do?

If you notice a dog left in a hot car, seek help from nearby stores or bystanders. In cases where the dog appears to be in immediate danger, contacting emergency services is advisable.

Emergency Actions for Dogs in Hot Cars

In extreme situations where a dog's health is at risk, breaking the car window can be justified. Owners who endanger their pets in this way may be liable for emergency service costs and can face legal consequences under the Animal Welfare Act.

Watch your dog

There is hardly a dog that has never suffered from a musculoskeletal disorder. Particularly as pets age, bone disease becomes more and more likely to occur. That’s why it’s even more important to keep an eye on your beloved four-legged friend, especially at an advanced age. After all, some signs of cartilage deterioration are not always obvious. In order to get help quickly and therapy started in time, you should keep a close eye on your dog.

Osteoarthritis in dogs

Osteoarthritis is one of the degenerative bone diseases in dogs. This means that individual body parts become increasingly limited in their function over the course of the disease (degeneration = regression). If your dog suffers from osteoarthritis, his joints become deformed over a long period of time: the cartilage wears away quickly, often the joint capsule also shrinks. The joints no longer properly adhere to each other, and the bones rub against each other, causing pain on the slightest movement.

Unhealthy stress can even cause bone-like growths. This can often be recognized by thickened knees, elbows, shoulders, spine and hips. A distinct crackling sound on movement can also indicate thickened joints. Any movement becomes painful for your dog. If left untreated, arthritis can lead to ossification of the joints.

Causes of arthritis in dogs

The most common cause of osteoarthritis is wear and tear on the joints. Most patients are older dogs.. But unhealthy strain as a result of improperly healed bone fractures or an injured cruciate ligament can also contribute to osteoarthritis in dogs. Immunity and genetics are also worth considering.

So if your dog is limping, no longer climbs stairs with ease, or already struggles to stand up, you should consult your veterinarian. X-rays and a clinical exam will allow you to make a reliable diagnosis and prescribe the right treatment.

Hip dysplasia in dogs

Although osteoarthritis can affect the whole body, the symptoms of hip dysplasia (HD) are concentrated in the area between your dog’s pelvis and hips. Hip dysplasia occurs when the socket is not deep enough and the femoral head (which is often too small) is not properly supported.

The joints have an unhealthy hue and painful bone deformities occur. This means that in older animals, for example, improper pelvic positioning can also lead to osteoarthritis. If puppies or young dogs already suffer from symptoms of HD, the condition is often congenital or hereditary.

With rapid growth or rapid weight gain, bone disease is also possible. However, contrary to popular belief, not only large breeds suffer from hip dysplasia, but also small dogs and sometimes even cats (e.g. Maine Coon).

How to recognize hip dysplasia in the early stages of development?

Because of the pain, your dog’s freedom of movement is naturally limited. If you notice that your pet is experiencing pain at a young age, it’s time to take action. What to look out for:

• Plays little.
• Tires quickly
• There’s a lot of lying around.

Already between the fourth and sixth month, the hips of affected animals differ in stability from healthy peers. But the final diagnosis must be made by a veterinarian.

Intervertebral disc herniation in dogs

Herniated discs (prolapsed discs) in dogs are not uncommon either. After all, sometimes all it takes is one sudden movement and any further activity becomes torture. So if your dog won’t let you pat him on the back anymore or suddenly refuses to climb stairs on his own, he may have recently suffered a protruded disc.

In principle, all dogs can suffer from this disease, but so-called “chondrodystrophic” breeds suffer from back problems particularly often. In other words, these are animals for which breeding standards prescribe a long back, short legs and a relatively large head. These include, for example, Dachshunds, Pekingese, Cocker Spaniels, and French Bulldogs. Therefore, the pathological consequences of a slipped disc in dogs are also called “dachshund palsy”.

What is a disc protrusion?

A dog’s spine consists of about 30 intervertebral discs. Ideally, they absorb shock and make the animal truly mobile. The intervertebral discs consist of:

• of the fibrous cartilage ring;
• of the gelatinous core.

If the ring is already porous, all it takes is one clumsy movement – for example, during jogging and jumping – and the gelatinous mass bulges out (protrusion) or even comes out completely (extrusion).

It usually results in painful swelling in the back, circulatory problems, inflammation or paralysis of the front and even the back legs. If the disc tissue presses on the nerves controlling the bladder or sphincter, the prolapse may also manifest as incontinence.

Causes of protrusion: Wear and improper loading

Like osteoarthritis, for example, a slipped disc can also be a sign of wear and tear in older dogs. Excess weight also contributes to this process. In addition, short-legged and long-haired breeds often suffer from it even before reaching old age.

Treatment of bone diseases in dogs

A slipped disc can paralyze a dog for life. In the worst case, when the surrounding nerves are so badly damaged that the dog can no longer empty his bowels and bladder on his own, the only last step is to put him to sleep.

Therefore, you should take your dog to the veterinarian at the first suspicion of bone disease. In addition to osteoarthritis, hip dysplasia or a slipped disc, a vertebral fracture, inflammation (such as panoptitis) or tumor can also cause pain.

During the exam, the veterinarian will palpate your dog in the affected areas or examine the musculoskeletal system and then take an x-ray. If necessary, a CT scan or spinal cord examination with a contrast agent may be necessary.

Medications and physical therapy

Unfortunately, hip dysplasia and osteoarthritis in dogs cannot be cured. However, if the suspicion of these diseases is confirmed, there are a number of measures that can be taken to relieve the dog of at least some of the symptoms. The most common of these is, of course, drug therapy.

If your dog’s movements are not restricted and bladder and bowel functions are intact, medication may be sufficient to relieve the symptoms of a disc protrusion. If your dog’s disc is already bulging or severely worn, special exercises with a physical therapist may prevent further ossification.

Heat therapy

Physiotherapists rely in particular on ultrasound to treat arthritis in humans: the sensor is passed over the painful area in circular motions for several minutes. Tissues are gently moved, and heat penetrates the body. Muscles and joints relax, and the pain subsides.

Warmth in any form is very helpful in treating bone ailments in dogs. Warm mats or blankets on the floor provide pain relief. Electric blankets as dog bed. are also possible, but they can easily overheat and catch fire. They need to be monitored.

Therefore, your dog should never lie unattended on an electric blanket. A red light lamp may help in some cases, such as severe pain in the hip joint. The dog should not be left alone with the lamp because of the risk of fire.

As long as the dog feels comfortable, he can lie in front of the warm lamp at a distance of about one meter. If the dog gets too warm, he will get up on his own. A dog coat is also very useful for dogs with bone ailments and joint problems: it protects damaged bones from the cold and damp. Swimming in warm water also relieves stress on the joints.

Surgery as an alternative?

If all previous treatments have no effect (more) or the symptoms worsen, surgical intervention by a specialized veterinarian may be the last resort. Osteoarthritis and HD can partially be treated with artificial joints. If your dog is already paralyzed or suffers incontinence due to a slipped disc, parts of the discs that press on the affected nerves are mechanically removed during surgery.

However, this procedure means that the dog will be in pain for several months afterwards and may even have to learn to walk again. Since the consequences of this surgery can be long and painful for your pet, you should not take this step lightly.

How do you prevent bone disease?

Since bone diseases in dogs are often caused by wear and tear, they cannot be one hundred percent prevented. However, there are some measures that can reduce the likelihood of symptoms: Every extra pound in a dog puts strain on the joints, especially with infrequent but vigorous exercise. Consequently, a proper and healthy diet plan can already prevent bone disease.

Since muscles play an important role in maintaining the skeleton, regular exercise (in moderation) with your dog is essential. Long walks are sometimes more sensible than vigorous exercise for dogs. Dog sports (agility, jogging, disc-dogging). Especially if your dog is at risk for disc slippage, he should not put too much strain on his spine. So avoid frequent stair climbing or jumping with your dog. Also chest harness Can also relieve pressure on your dog’s cervical spine.

Below we have categorized foods as harmful or toxic. As is often the case, some foods have ambiguous effects, so we’ve listed the hazardous quantities for your dog. Also, pay attention to factors such as size, age, weight and health that may affect your pet’s condition. If you suspect that your dog has eaten something suspicious and in a dangerous amount, you need to keep a close eye on him and contact your veterinarian right away.

Dangerous varieties of fruit

Avocados can be used in salads and guacamole. However, in addition to the healthy essential fatty acids, it contains persin, which is absolutely poisonous to dogs: it is not only found in the core of the fruit, but also in the peel and pulp. Poisoning is usually fatal as it causes heart muscle damage, respiratory failure and dropsy.

Different kinds of grapes and sultanas are bad for our four-legged friends. Excessive consumption usually leads to stomach cramps, diarrhea, vomiting and other negative effects. Sultanas are even more dangerous because they contain higher concentrations of harmful substances. In the worst case, it leads to increased kidney function with subsequent kidney failure and hypercalcemia (excessive amounts of calcium in the blood). The exact “risk dose” is not yet known; it is assumed that about 10 g of fresh grapes per kg of dog body weight is harmful.

The pips of fruits such as cherries, apricots or plums are poisonous. They all contain cyanide, which can be fatal. Symptoms of pitting poisoning include increased salivation, vomiting, malaise and cramps. The following rule also applies here: too much is poison.

Harmful Vegetables

Onions and garlic, which people often use as additives in almost every dish, but they are very harmful to dogs. The toxins destroy red blood cells, which can lead to anemia in dogs and death.

You should not give broccoli. It contains a substance called isothiocyanate, which attacks and damages your dog’s digestive system. The dog’s body cannot cope with it. Keep in mind that this vegetable is only harmful when it makes up a tenth of the total food. Broccoli is very dangerous, you should not risk your dog’s health.

Three popular foods that are bad for pets

Everyone knows today that chocolate and cocoa are bad for dogs. Both contain theobromine, which cannot be broken down or is broken down slowly due to a lack of enzymes. Consequences of eating chocolate in dogs include increased blood pressure with constriction of blood vessels: the cause of death is often cardiac arrhythmia or cardiac arrest. The lethal dose is about 100 mg of theobromine per 1 kg of the dog’s body weight: so 60 g of milk chocolate or 8 g of dark chocolate (depending on the cocoa content) may already be too much. Never give it to dogs!

Meat is good for dogs: Of course! However, this does not apply to raw pork. It may contain the Aujeszky’s virus (pseudorabies, false rabies, infectious bulbar palsy, pruritic plague), which is absolutely fatal for dogs and cats. Therefore, you should first heat the meat to at least 80°C, this virus cannot survive at high temperatures.

Nuts are also not good for your dog’s body in large quantities because they have a very high phosphorus content. This puts a huge strain on the kidneys, so they should not be fed regularly, too often, or in large quantities. Macadamia nuts should be treated with particular caution: they are poisonous to dogs and should never be eaten by dogs.

Harmful

We should know that alcohol ceases to be beneficial for us when a certain amount is exceeded, in some cases it can even be fatal. The same is true for dogs. Even small amounts of alcohol can lead to vomiting, impaired coordination and, in the worst case, a coma. Dogs suffer the same symptoms as humans, but the dog’s body requires much smaller doses.

Beverages containing caffeine, such as coffee, tea and energy drinks, are also taboo for dogs. They contain methylxanthine, which raises blood pressure and increases heart rate while lowering the neurological threshold in the brain. Similar symptoms occur as when eating chocolate.

Poisons in the home are very common

The nicotine in tobacco is also harmful to your dog. Just 5 to 25 grams of dry tobacco is enough to kill your pet. Symptoms here are also rapid breathing and heartbeat, drooling and movement disorders. That is why you should make sure that your dog never drinks from puddles with cigarette butts in them.

Did your dog twist his ankle? If so, you would take a painkiller yourself to relieve the pain. So why not give your dog a pill? Under no circumstances should you self-medicate, because few substances that help people are also good for dogs. Poisoning from painkillers can occur quickly in a dog. Only a veterinarian should prescribe pain medication.

What you need to know about ticks

Ticks are blood-sucking arachnids; they wait for passing prey in bushes, grass, and shrubs. When the opportunity arises, they fall or cling to an animal and crawl to a suitable spot to suck blood. Feeding on blood, they can transmit dangerous pathogens through their saliva. For example, Lyme disease or early-onset meningoencephalitis (TBE), which makes a tick bite not only painful or unpleasant, but also dangerous.
These pests are especially comfortable in warm and humid environments and are usually particularly active between March and October. However, depending on the species, they can also be active much earlier or longer, depending on the climate zone. Some mite species, such as the common wood mite, become active at temperatures just above freezing. This is why prevention and protection is not only recommended in summer.

Vaccinations against ticks

Yes, there are tick vaccinations for your beloved four-legged friend. However, these generally do not protect against ticks, but only produce antibodies against the infectious disease Lyme disease. In general, there is nothing wrong with vaccination, of course. However, experts do not always recommend vaccination. The reason is that four-legged friends who have already been in contact with the Lyme disease pathogen can get kidney infections if they are subsequently vaccinated. Be very cautious.

Tick control

Every long walk should be accompanied by a thorough examination of the animal. This is boring, but the best prevention against tick bites and related diseases. Ticks usually bite only after a few hours because they need time to get through the fur to the skin, it all depends on the thickness and length of the fur as well as the body part. Therefore, when examining an animal, you should stroke it and examine it carefully; if the coat is long, a comb will help. Most often, when bitten, the pet feels discomfort and begins to scratch, showing the place to the owner. With enough sensitivity and patience, tick control is not only useful, but it is also good for your pet.

Removing mites

What’s really important when removing ticks, whether with tweezers, hooks or other tools, is the importance of pulling the parasite out correctly. This requires a certain amount of skill. The tool should be disinfected and as close to the skin as possible, you need to catch it by the head without crushing the body of the tick. In this case, the tick may not be removed completely.

Another criterion is the pressure on the tick during removal, which must be sufficient to keep the tick from slipping out of the tool. If the compression force is too strong, the compressed tick may release more toxic saliva and inject it into your pet. It is necessary to pull out (slowly with force) by turning the tick counterclockwise.

If part of the tick is lodged in the animal, it is not always dangerous. As a rule, the rest will eventually come out on its own. However, if you notice that an infection has gotten into the affected area, you should see a doctor immediately and not wait for it to heal itself.

Even if you have an aversion to these pests, never try to drown the mite in oil or use glue and nail polish (remover) to kill it on the pet itself. These substances will only stress the mite, causing it to secrete more saliva into the wound, which may contain dangerous pathogens. Your pet may also feel discomfort or even pain. Treat it responsibly!

What to do after a tick removal

When you have removed the tick, disinfect the bite site and breathe a sigh of relief, but it is advisable to keep an eye on the bite site for a while. Especially in risk areas it can happen that the tick has already introduced harmful pathogens into the body while sucking blood. In the case of Lyme disease, for example, redness will appear around the bite site, which will increase over time; the bite site may also become inflamed. If you notice a skin reaction or changes in the animal’s behavior (some TBE virus symptoms resemble the onset of the flu – fatigue, lethargy, apathy, lack of appetite), you should definitely consult a doctor to prevent a possible infection and prevent its progression.

Preparations against ticks

Spot preparations are insecticides that drip between the shoulder blades on the back of four-legged friends and spread on their own across the animal’s skin through the sweat glands. Their purpose is to both repel and remove already attached mites. Most spot preparations are not suitable for puppies and kittens because of the ingredients they contain, so adult animal tolerance should also be considered.

Before using spot preparations, the instructions for use must be followed, as each preparation has a different effect and is tolerated differently; the intervals of application may also vary greatly from one preparation to another: however, following the instructions is absolutely essential, as non-compliance increases the risk of reappearance of mites.

Tick collars

Anti-mite collars, which the pet wears in addition to the “regular” collar, contain insecticides and acaricides. Their active ingredients are released continuously and over a long period of time into the greasy film of the skin and coat and spread over the skin surface. Their active ingredients, as in spot-on preparations, serve to disrupt the nervous system of the mites to induce them to fall away from the host.

Tick collars are also not suitable for very young animals and can cause side effects, so even here you need to pay attention to the recommendations for use.

Herbal remedies for mite control

There are various herbal preparations that can help control mites, such as oils, sprays and lotions with combinations of herbal extracts that are supposed to have a repellent effect on mites and other pests. Check with your veterinarian for preparations.

Another example of natural tick prevention is fresh garlic in pill form. It has now been proven that regular amounts of garlic in the food changes the body odor of a four-legged friend in such a way that it becomes less attractive to mites. Care should be taken with the amount, however, as large amounts of garlic are harmful to dogs.

Risk of overdose and allergies

Protection and prevention with commercially available preparations, as well as herbal remedies, are useful in controlling mites only when used in the correct doses according to the instructions. If the dosage is high, this protection can backfire. Despite all caution, the following should be kept in mind: many of the products used are chemicals that can cause side effects such as red skin, nausea, drowsiness, hair loss and itching. Please use them only in small doses. Dangerous interactions may also occur in combination with other active ingredients.

The following needs to be clarified: Does your pet have any allergies or intolerances caused by anti-tick medications? Your veterinarian can help you decide which medication is best to use with your pet.

Preventing tick bites

Another important point is that you should familiarize yourself with the general prevalence and risk of TBE infection. There are special tick distribution maps that you can buy at pharmacies in your city or find on the Internet. They show where the risk of being bitten and infected is particularly high. If you want to go on vacation in Europe, you can find tick distribution maps for your city on the Internet.

Change of Wool

In the spring and fall, when temperatures change, cats and dogs have a coat change. The old fur is shed and must be removed. This allows the skin to breathe freely and the new hair to grow back well. If old, loose hairs are left on the pet, it quickly becomes matted. Not only does this look unattractive, but it also causes skin irritations such as eczema. In principle, cats do most of the grooming themselves. Nevertheless, the owner needs to comb out the animal, as mites and other parasites can be detected, also possible hidden wounds. Similarly, the condition of the coat indicates the health of the cat or dog. Thus, changes that indicate disease can be quickly detected during grooming.

Long-haired short-haired pet

The necessary care of the coat depends greatly on its length. For short-haired breeds such as Rottweilers or Carthusians, it is enough to remove loose hair once a week with a dog comb (more often during coat renewal). For breeds like the Maine Coon, Bobtail, or Shih Tzu, it is a more time consuming process: the hair should be well combed out at least once every two or three days, and daily in the spring and fall. This can take some time, as it is sometimes not easy to remove the undercoat. In addition, there are many sprays and oils that additionally care for the dog’s coat and also protect the skin, such as against dandruff.

A visit to the hairdresser

When you think about visiting a groomer with your dog or cat, some people have an image in their mind of dyed hair or nail clippings, but this is not always the case. For some dog breeds it makes sense to visit a professional several times a year: with scissors in trained hands you can get rid of annoying lint and hair tangles much better and faster than brushing your pet at home for hours; besides, there is less stress for the animal and human. For some breeds, such as schnauzers or dachshunds, it’s worth getting a professional haircut: this means pulling the loose hair out. Trimming is done either with a machine or with the fingers of a skilled professional.

However, once the coat is removed, care must be taken to ensure that the animal does not get sunburn, as it is no longer protected by a thick coat. In addition, Bernese mountain dogs, for example, need protection from the cold through the coat if they are regularly in the water.

What hairbrush or brush to choose for your pet

Below we would like to introduce some brushes and combs and give you an idea of what is best for your four-legged friend.
Cats often do not show much enthusiasm when it comes to grooming: this may be due to the wrong brushes, which can prick the cat or cause him discomfort. A natural bristle brush is especially soft and glides nicely over your pet’s coat. Your cat is sure to love it.

For short-haired dogs who don’t like combing or brushing (the very stiff bristles irritate or scratch the skin), a grooming glove is a better choice. It massages the dog’s skin, promotes blood circulation and removes loose hair and dirt with small rubber tips.

A good solution for long-haired and short-haired cats is a furminator. With it, you can remove almost all the hair that has fallen out of the pet without damaging the top layer. This way, the cat will always look well groomed.

The best alternative for your dog would be a metal comb for long hair. In the case of matted hair, special defelters can be used. They are ideal for simply untangling and tearing through the hair, thus taking care of the top and bottom layer at the same time.

Totally new on the market ionizing cleaning brush. Battery-operated, it generates an electric and simultaneously antistatic magnetic field and works like a vacuum cleaner. It attracts dirt and loose hairs and thanks to the separation plate that quickly removes old hairs. In addition, the brush eliminates unpleasant hair odors because the ions combine with bad ions and neutralize odors.

Speaking of smells: bathe your four-legged friend only if it is unavoidable. This is especially true for dogs, sometimes it is necessary when they get dirty in something bad smelling. Be sure to use shampoo for cats and dogs, as it is especially gentle on sensitive skin.

Prepare in advance

Of course, it is not always possible to predict that something will happen to your pet today or tomorrow. However, that is why it is important to prepare yourself in advance. This includes, above all, acquiring important knowledge!

For example:

• How do you put a bandage on a dog?
• What is important when disinfecting a dog’s wounds?
• How do you remove a foreign body, such as a splinter, without causing your dog unnecessary stress?

As a dog owner, you should be able to answer all of these questions in advance so that if the worst happens, you don’t have to panic and wonder what to do.  This knowledge will help you stay calm in an emergency situation. Preparing for an emergency also includes having the most important contact information: the numbers and addresses of the nearest vets or veterinary clinics, you should always have on hand to contact them as quickly as possible. A great alternative, which unfortunately is not available everywhere, is animal rescue services. Find out about such services in your area of residence.

Simple wound care

Wound care should be performed when the dog has open wounds. These do not have to be large wounds. Even insect bite wounds are open wounds and carry the risk of infectious disease. The wound should be evaluated first.

Small and superficial wounds in dogs

Is it a minor injury and there is no doubt that there are no more serious injuries? Then often simple wound care will suffice.

Wash the wound with a disinfectant solution. If no such solution is available and the wound is very dirty, clean water will suffice (not desired).

Then apply a mild disinfectant. Important: Disinfect such wounds only once! Repeated disinfection prevents the wound from healing.

Ointments often cause dogs to lick the wound. Licking wounds is harmful to the pet and leads to unpleasant inflammation. Therefore, it is best not to use them unless absolutely necessary.

Large wounds in dogs

First aid measures depend on the type of wound the animal has. As a general rule, the wound should be as clean as possible and at first do not use ointments, sprays or similar products. Otherwise, the veterinarian will not be able to examine the wound properly. You should then discuss anti-inflammatory and healing treatments with your veterinarian.

Heavy bleeding in a dog

If your dog is bleeding heavily, you must do everything possible to stop the wound from bleeding. Bleeding with pulsating bright red blood from the wound is especially dangerous – an artery has been damaged. Then you must act quickly!

To stop the bleeding, apply a squeeze dressing. Cover the wound with a gauze compress. Then wrap a layer of bandage around it. Then take a fixing bandage and press it to the wound site. Wrap it tightly in a bandage. Remember that such a bandage should only be kept for a short time (about 15-20 minutes). It is good and suitable for quick transport to the vet. But then it must be removed or you risk harming the dog. In case of bleeding, it also helps to cool the area. This causes the blood vessels to constrict and reduces blood flow. It is rarely necessary to bandage the affected limb. If it does become necessary, use as wide a bandage as possible. Thin cords will only cause additional damage. Then apply a pressure dressing directly, relieve the blood congestion – and head to the vet!

Foreign body in the wound

Is there a foreign body in the wound? The size of the foreign body is important. Small ones, such as a bee sting or wood splinter, can easily be removed with tweezers. Larger foreign bodies (such as a branch or splinter of an object), on the other hand, should not simply be pulled out of the wound. Otherwise you risk severe bleeding or other complications!

Prevent more damage. Contact your veterinarian immediately! He will be able to remove the foreign object in clean conditions and properly treat the wound.

Injury from a bite

Bite injuries are a special case. From the outside they often look harmless. Basically, only fang bites are visible as small holes. Unfortunately, the appearance of the wound is often deceptive. Not only do biting dogs pierce the skin, but they usually pull hard on it. This often results in a large wound pocket that, if not properly treated, becomes inflamed and causes serious problems. Therefore, it is best to have bite wounds carefully examined and treated by a professional veterinarian. The risk of wound infection is high. If necessary, stop the bleeding with cold water and apply a pressure dressing. Otherwise, it is sufficient to close the wound. Then see a veterinarian as soon as possible.

How to treat a wound

You can use compresses from the medicine cabinet to cover the wound. Of course, this bandage will come off as soon as the dog starts to move, so it’s important that you always have bandages at home.

You can use them to cover wounds, or to temporarily bind your dog’s muzzle (so the dog doesn’t lick the wound or bite the owner from shock), or to make emergency leashes. Bandages that stick only to themselves (“cohesive bandages”) are especially good. They do not stick to the coat and can therefore be applied painlessly and can be removed painlessly. Place absorbent cotton between the bandage and the bandage. This will cushion the bandage well. This is especially important for ointments and paw bandages that must be worn for long periods of time. When putting the bandage on the paw, you should also place a narrow strip of cushioning absorbent cotton in the space between each toe – otherwise chafing will occur when the bandage is worn for long periods of time.

You should also keep tweezers handy to remove small foreign bodies such as barbs or splinters from wounds.

You can also remove the tick, but it is important not to crush the body of the tick. If you want to make it easier, you can use a special tick remover. Pulling a tick out is child’s play. Don’t worry.

Next, you will need two pairs of scissors: one for removing the hair around the wounds (this reduces the risk of infection and gives good visibility), the other for cutting the bandages. The scissors should be blunt at the front, so as not to damage the dog’s skin during the work.

Another component is disposable cold packs, which can be used in case of edema and heatstroke, can also be used in case of swelling. You should always have a thermometer and a flashlight handy. You can use the flashlight to check your dog’s nose, muzzle and ears and to take care of his wounds in the dark.

First aid for the dog at home and on the road

As a rule, it is reasonable to have two boxes of bandages: a fully equipped one for home and a limited version for a trip out of town. Here, a few fixing bandages and dressing cloths are enough.

These two things can be used to cover and bandage wounds, treat a bite site, perform artificial respiration through a bandage cloth in an emergency, or create a makeshift leash. It is important that all materials be stored well in both cases.

It is important that the first aid kits be kept in a dry place and not exposed to excessive temperature fluctuations. This can shorten the life of the products. In addition, you should regularly check the condition of the contents and expiration dates so that you have everything on hand in an emergency.

One last thing to keep in mind: if you have any doubts, always see your veterinarian as soon as possible. Wounds often look unsightly, but because of deeper damage or a higher risk of infection, they are more dangerous than the untrained owner might think at first glance.

Human hands and dog feet are similar in structure but different in use and function. Dogs do not walk with a full foot like humans, but only on their toes. This provides greater maneuverability, strength development, and cushioning. A dog has six paw pads (four toe pads, one palm pad and one wrist pad) on the underside of the paw. The paw pads consist mainly of calluses and fat, and can neutralize uneven ground. Thus, the paws have an important protective function.

But at the same time they are sensory organs that transmit important information from the environment (e.g. temperature, vibrations, soil material). At the same time, dogs emit their own scent through their sweat glands. It is also part of their communication. Sweat secretions formed on the pads, which resemble a thin film on the pads of the paws serve to improve adhesion to surfaces. Dogs also have claws on their paws. These claws provide support. Also, there is skin between the toes that increases the mobility of the paws depending on the situation. The fur between the toes serves to protect the delicate space between the toes.

Taking care of your dog’s paws

Dogs on a leash walk up to 20 km a day, and even domestic dogs walk an impressive distance. In difficult terrain and in harsh weather conditions, their paws can get seriously damaged. This is especially true in winter.

Proper care can help prevent paw injuries

Claw trimming: Claws are trimmed to the desired length on hard surfaces and with moderate physical force. Clipping is necessary to prevent ingrown claws and related injuries to the dog.

Depending on the intensity of movement on a particular surface, regular claw trimming is essential care. Claw trimming with clippers or grinders is convenient and easy at home. However, care should be taken not to cut the blood vessels. The blood vessels run inside the claw and are only visible on light-colored claws.

Dry paws: make sure your dog’s paws are always dry. Parasites prefer a warm, humid environment, so constant dampness can cause immediate pain and irritation between his toes.

Keep the coat short: Long hair on the soles of the feet can be a problem in bad weather. Long hair overlaps the soles of the paws, making it difficult to get a good grip. In addition, snow and mud clumps more easily adhere to the coat and accumulate moisture.

Paw cleaning is good for the dog

Spots are the first step to breaking the skin barrier and causing painful inflammation. That’s why keeping paws clean is a grooming priority. Paw cleaners are a quick and easy cleaner.

It looks like an ordinary plastic cup. However, it has multiple teeth inside that act like bristles and help remove dirt from hard-to-reach places. To use, fill the cup with water or soapy solution and dip dirty paws into the top of the device. Depending on the model, the cleaning process is automatic at the touch of a button or manual (twist, twist or knead).

The paw cleaner can be taken anywhere, so it can be used in everyday situations outside the home (e.g., going to a restaurant). Depending on the degree of contamination, a full body wash is preferable at home.

Is cream or balm necessary for paw pads?

The pads of the paws are the most stressed during running. Therefore they should always be in good condition. If the paw structure is damaged (dry, cracked), it should be treated with grooming products. Paw balm helps stabilize the protective atmosphere and hardness of the skin. Simply rub the cream into the affected skin area. However, make sure that the ingredients in it are safe for your dog. We advise you to read the reviews beforehand.

Is there a home remedy for treating a dog’s inflamed paw?

For minor complaints, you don’t have to buy expensive remedies or call in professionally trained helpers.

Here are some ways to prevent injuries that you can do at home for minor injuries:

• Inflammation: warm baths with clotted soap
• Dry finger pads: coconut oil for external use or salmon oil orally.
• Long claws: long walks on asphalt.

First aid supplies

For burns: cool the affected dog’s paws with a cooling pad or a moist, cool cloth.

For cuts:

1. Clean the paw.

2. For severe cuts: protect the wound with a dressing.

In case of insect bites.

1. Remove the “spout” with clean tweezers.

2. Keep the dog’s paw in a cool place for a while.

Why does my dog lick his paw pads?

It is quite normal for dogs to lick their paws to groom themselves. However, excessive licking of paws may indicate a number of problems:

• Postural errors leading to stress or boredom. The dog tries to compensate for his dissatisfaction by intensive licking.
• Malnutrition due to poor concentration of nutrients.
• Itching caused by skin infections, mite infestation or allergies.
• Swelling, pain and itching due to insect bites.
• Foreign bodies under the skin.

A foreign object in your dog’s paw. What to do?

There are many dangers lurking in nature. Natural materials such as rocks, trees, thorny plants and trees are everyday hazards. However, if such debris enters the wound, you can almost always handle it yourself. Try to grasp the foreign object with sterile tweezers. Then soak the affected paw with warm water and apply an antiseptic spray or wound cream.

Are grass ticks dangerous on a dog’s paws?

Inflammation of the paw pads can be caused by parasites. Grass mites cause severe itching and allergic reactions at the bite site. As a rule, the affected area becomes inflamed, swollen and red. The parasite mite makes the dog very uncomfortable, so it should be treated as soon as possible. If the symptoms are mild, it is enough to use a shampoo to prevent parasites. However, in severe cases, a veterinarian consultation is recommended.

Taking care of your dog’s paws in winter

Winter is a special time of year for your dog. Not only can ice and snow make walking difficult, but salt, water and trampled snow can hurt their paws.

Tips for preventing winter injuries:

• Regular walks should be broken up into several short runs so that paws always have a chance to recover.
• If possible, switch to a less branched route after an individual risk assessment. If this is not possible, remove contamination from your dog’s paws with warm water after each walk.
• If your dog’s paws are particularly stressed (service dogs or dogs with pre-existing skin conditions), you can include special products (paw balm, wax, dog shoes) in their winter care.

What to watch out for when caring for your dog’s paws during a snowfall

Snow can be very painful for dogs with ungroomed paws. It sticks to the long hair between his paws, where it turns into hard ice (called stollen). This block of ice can cause a lot of pain and disrupt the dog’s musculoskeletal system.

When the spaces between the toes are free of hair and the pads are rubbed with a layer of fat, the painful masses of snow no longer stick to them. If clumps do form, they can be crushed between the toes and then removed with a gentle pulling motion.

Paw patches in dogs – what do I need to pay attention to?

If your dog has a wound on his paw (such as a cut), protect him from infection with a bandage on his paw.

There are several things to pay attention to when applying a bandage.

Use these instructions to bandage your dog’s paw in an emergency:

• Rinse the wound with warm water. Try to remove hair or visible debris from the open wound.
• If necessary, trim the hair around the wound. This will allow a good view of the wound.
• Apply a dog-safe disinfectant and wound cream to the wound.
• Cover the wound with a compress.
• Place a piece of absorbent cotton between your toes and wrap the bandage from top to bottom to secure the wool. Self-adhesive bandages will hold in place and nonadhesive bandages will require medical tape.

The main thing is to apply the bandage in such a way that it does not constrict, but fixes firmly. Dogs cannot sweat through their skin and need their paws to compensate for their body temperature. If the bandage is not applied correctly, problems can arise. Therefore, if you are unsure, consult your veterinarian.