Discover the joy of transforming old items into stylish cat furniture. An old fruit crate, for instance, can be repurposed into a chic, vintage-style cat bed. Sand it down for safety, paint with cat-safe paint, and maintain a rustic look to complement your home decor. This upcycled cat furniture not only saves money but also adds a unique charm to your living space.
Turn an old suitcase into an innovative cat bed with just a few simple steps. Attach legs for elevation, ensuring a warm and comfortable resting place away from cold floors. This approach to creating homemade cat furniture is not only practical but also adds a vintage flair to your interior.
Integrate litter boxes seamlessly into your home with our discreet litter tray solutions. Conceal them under furniture and add decorative elements to blend them with your home's aesthetic. This approach to cat litter box furniture ensures functionality without compromising on style.
Embrace your love for technology by turning old monitors and TVs into futuristic cat beds. This tech-themed cat furniture is not just a cozy spot for your cat but also a conversation starter.
Create a dynamic catwalk in your home, allowing your cat to explore heights safely. This idea is perfect for small spaces, turning walls into fun, vertical playgrounds for your pet. It's an excellent way to enrich your cat's environment and enhance their well-being.
For more ideas and detailed instructions on building your own cat furniture, visit our website. Our Cat Furniture Ideas page offers a wealth of information and inspiration to help you create the perfect haven for your feline friend.
В этом тексте использованы ключевые слова, такие как "DIY cat furniture", "homemade cat trees", "recycled cat beds", а также оптимизированы изображения и внутренние ссылки для улучшения SEO. Каждый раздел детализирован для обеспечения информативности и уникальности контента.
A variety of materials can be used to make cat furniture, including plywood, MDF, wood, cardboard, rope, fabric, and even old furniture.
It’s important to choose a project that fits the size and needs of your cat. Also consider your skills and available materials.
Cat furniture making will require tools such as a saw, drill, screwdriver, glue, tape measure and others.
It is important to take precautions when working with tools and materials to avoid injury. You should also make sure that the furniture is safe for your cat, for example, has no sharp corners or slips.
Outdoor access can greatly benefit domestic cats in several ways:
However, it’s important to note that the outdoor environment should be safe and secure. Cat-proof fencing, supervised outings, or a dedicated cat patio (catio) can provide safe outdoor experiences.
Despite the benefits, there are significant risks associated with outdoor access:
When deciding whether to allow your cat outdoor access, consider the following:
Evaluate the safety of your immediate environment. Is your neighborhood busy with traffic? Are there known predators in the area? Cats living in busy urban areas or near major roads face greater risks than those in quieter, suburban, or rural areas.
Consider your cat's health and age. Young, agile cats may navigate outdoor challenges better than older or health-compromised cats. Outdoor access may need to be limited or supervised for cats with chronic health conditions.
Regular flea and tick control, as well as vaccinations, are crucial for outdoor cats. Discuss with your veterinarian the best healthcare regime for your outdoor cat.
Neutering reduces the risk of unwanted litters and can decrease roaming tendencies in cats. Microchipping is a safe way to ensure your cat can be identified and returned to you if they get lost. It's a simple, quick procedure that can offer peace of mind.
A collar with an ID tag is also recommended, but ensure it’s a safety collar that breaks away if caught.
Before deciding on outdoor access for your cat, consider their personality, health, and your living environment. Some cats may prefer the safety and comfort of the indoors, while others may thrive with outdoor access.
If you decide against outdoor access, ensure that your home environment is enriched with cat trees, scratching posts, and toys to stimulate your cat’s natural behaviors.
Indoor living doesn't have to be boring for cats. Enrich their environment with various types of toys, scratching posts, and perches. Regular interactive play sessions can help satisfy their predatory instincts. If possible, provide access to secured outdoor spaces like balconies or patios.
Remember, each cat is unique, and what works for one may not work for another. The decision to allow outdoor access should be based on a careful assessment of the risks and benefits, tailored to your cat's needs and your specific living situation.
— In this article, we've explored the various aspects of allowing domestic cats outdoor access, comparing their needs and instincts with those of wild panthers, and provided insights for owners to make informed decisions about their feline friends' lifestyle.
Yes, but it is safer to let a cat outside on a leash and with a chip. Collars are not desirable.
You need to make sure that the cat has enough skills to survive outside, has no medical problems, and knows its home address. You also need to let the cat outside at a safe time of day when there is no heavy traffic or danger.
The number of walks outside depends on the individual cat’s needs, age and health. On average, it is enough for cats to go outside a couple of times a week, but some cats may need more frequent walks.
You can train the cat to come back at the sound or whistle signal. Or track it by its chip.
It is important to first check the surroundings of the house and try calling the cat by name or whistle. If the cat doesn’t show up within a few hours, it’s worth spreading the word on social media and contacting local animal shelters. We recommend using a tracking chip.
Estrus, or the heat cycle in cats, is a complex biological process marked by significant hormonal changes and distinct mating behaviors. It’s divided into two primary phases: pre-estrus and estrus. The cycle is initiated by a surge in estrogen levels, signaling the cat’s body that it’s ready for potential mating.
Unlike dogs, cats do not exhibit visible changes in their external genitalia during estrus. Instead, their behavior becomes a clear indicator of their readiness to mate. Female cats become more vocal, often engaging in loud meowing and rolling on the ground, displaying their availability to male counterparts. It’s a natural process that requires understanding and patience from cat owners.
A fascinating aspect of feline reproduction is induced ovulation. Cats do not ovulate spontaneously; ovulation is triggered by the physical act of mating. The mechanical stimulation of receptors in the vaginal wall during mating prompts the release of luteinizing hormone from the pituitary gland. This hormone surge leads to the maturation and release of eggs, making fertilization possible.
For successful ovulation, a cat may need to mate several times. The concentration of hormones must reach a threshold for ovulation to occur, typically within 24-36 hours after mating. Cats can mate with multiple partners during this period, which can result in a litter of kittens with different fathers.
During the estrus cycle, female cats exhibit behaviors specifically aimed at attracting male partners. These behaviors include increased vocalization, restlessness, and a heightened sense of affection. Male cats, sensitive to these signals, can detect a female in heat from a considerable distance and may become more territorial and aggressive in response.
Environmental factors significantly influence the timing and frequency of a cat’s estrus cycle. Cats living indoors and exposed to constant artificial lighting may experience irregular heat cycles. In contrast, outdoor cats are more likely to have their estrus cycles influenced by natural daylight and seasonal changes.
A cat in heat can exhibit behaviors that are challenging to manage. These include excessive meowing, restlessness, and marking territory with urine, which contains pheromones to attract mates. Understanding these behaviors is crucial in providing the right care and environment for your cat during this time.
Spaying, or the surgical removal of a cat’s ovaries, is the most effective way to prevent unwanted pregnancies and manage estrus-related behaviors. This procedure not only eliminates the physical and emotional stresses associated with the heat cycle but also contributes to the cat’s long-term health, reducing the risk of ovarian and uterine diseases.
In conclusion, understanding and managing a cat’s estrus cycle is a vital aspect of responsible pet ownership. By recognizing the signs and behaviors associated with the heat cycle, providing a nurturing environment, and considering spaying, cat owners can ensure the well-being and health of their feline companions.
The heat is a period of sexual activity in cats when they become ready to reproduce. During heat, a cat may attract the attention of cats and be aggressive.
Usually, a cat’s heat occurs every 2-3 weeks, but this can vary depending on the breed, age, and health of the cat.
The first signs of a cat in heat may include meowing, getting into the ready position, frequent licking of the genital area, increased activity and aggression.
The heat in cats can last from 3 to 14 days, depending on the individual characteristics of each cat.
The only way to prevent a cat from going through heat is to have it spayed. This is a surgical procedure that removes a cat’s ovaries.
Spaying a cat is a one-time procedure and does not need to be repeated in the future.
Spaying a cat avoids problems with heat and related behavioral problems such as aggression, territory marking, and urge to run away. It also reduces the risk of ovarian and uterine tumors.
No, heat by itself does not affect a cat’s health, but behavioral problems associated with heat can create stress and negatively impact a cat’s health.
Some cats may exhibit unwanted behavior during heat, such as aggression and territory marking. To prevent this behavior, special pheromones can be used to help calm the cat and reduce its tendency to mark and aggression. You can also limit the cat’s access to the street or to a cat of the opposite sex during heat to prevent accidental bonding.
Unspayed cats can suffer from a number of problems associated with heat, including unwanted behavior, risk of contracting infectious diseases from other cats, risk of developing ovarian and uterine tumors, and high risk of unwanted pregnancy and having large numbers of kittens that may end up homeless.
Preventive care is crucial in the colder months. Schedule veterinary check-ups in the fall to catch any health issues that might worsen in cold weather. Vaccinations and deworming are important for both cats and dogs as they prepare to face the winter months.
At home, adjust your pet’s diet to account for increased energy expenditure in cold weather. Dogs and cats burn more calories to maintain body heat. Increase their food intake slightly, focusing on a balanced diet rich in carbohydrates and proteins. However, monitor their weight closely to avoid obesity.
Many cats have access to the outdoors throughout the year. Their tolerance for cold weather varies based on breed, fur length, and health.
Cats with short fur or health issues should have limited outdoor exposure in winter to avoid respiratory problems like pneumonia or kidney infections. Outdoor cats generally grow thicker coats in winter, providing them with natural insulation. However, gradual acclimatization to cold temperatures is essential.
For those who worry about their cats at night, consider installing a cat flap for free movement. If that’s not an option, create a warm, insulated outdoor shelter with materials like polystyrene, straw, and blankets.
Be cautious about water bodies like ponds in winter. Thin ice can be a hazard, so consider fencing off these areas. Also, be careful with cat clothing or collars, as they can lead to accidents if the cat gets caught.
Dogs, especially those that spend a lot of time outdoors, require specific care in winter. Apply protective ointments or balms to their paws to shield them from cold surfaces, ice, and harmful substances like road salt.
For active dogs or those involved in dog sports, consider special footwear like “valenki” boots to protect their paws. However, this might not be necessary for everyday walks in urban areas.
Keep your dog active and moving during walks to maintain warmth. For small, old, or thinly-coated dogs, invest in functional, warm clothing. Avoid letting your dog play with snowballs or sticks, as these can cause injuries or digestive problems. Prevent your dog from eating snow, which may contain harmful substances like road salt.
After walks, thoroughly clean your dog’s paws and check for injuries or trapped debris. Apply a soothing cream to keep their paws healthy. Avoid frequent baths in winter, as this can strip the skin of natural oils, reducing cold protection. Regular brushing is important to remove dead undercoat and maintain healthy skin and fur.
Ensure your home is a warm, comfortable haven for your pets during winter. Provide extra bedding and blankets for them to snuggle into. Keep their sleeping area away from drafts and cold floors.
Consider using a humidifier if your home gets particularly dry in winter. Dry air can affect your pet’s skin and respiratory system.
Proper nutrition is essential in winter. Provide a balanced diet rich in essential nutrients. Ensure continuous access to clean, unfrozen water to keep your pets well-hydrated.
Remember, winter care for pets goes beyond just keeping them warm. It’s about adjusting their entire care routine to ensure they stay healthy and comfortable throughout the season. Your attentive care will help your pets enjoy the winter months safely and happily.
In winter, it is not recommended to wash cats and dogs too often, as this may cause them to become overcooled. If your pet gets very dirty, it is better to use dry shampoo or special wet wipes to clean the fur.
During the winter season, it is important to provide your pet with adequate shelter, a warm bed, and warm dog clothing. You should also limit the amount of time your pet spends outside in cold weather.
To keep your pet healthy, it is important to follow the same diet that you use during the warm season during the winter. However, you can add more nutritious ingredients to their diet, such as chicken broth or chunks of meat.
During the winter season, it may be too cold outside for long walks. Instead, you can do indoor activities such as playing or exercising. You can also go indoors, such as petting zoos or halls.
During the winter season, your pet may get less exercise outdoors, which can lead to dental and gum health problems. It’s important to continue brushing your pet’s teeth regularly and using chew toys to help them maintain healthy teeth and gums.
The temptation of grilled foods can be hard to resist for dogs, but it's crucial to understand why certain barbecue items are hazardous to them.
If your dog consumes hazardous barbecue food, quick action is necessary:
Prevention is key when it comes to keeping your dog safe during a barbecue.
With some planning and vigilance, you can ensure a fun and safe barbecue experience for your dog.
By understanding the risks and taking appropriate measures, you can enjoy the barbecue season with your furry friend in tow, ensuring they stay safe, healthy, and happy.
Yes, if your dog eats food that has been grilled that contains ingredients that are dangerous to animals, such as onions, garlic, chocolate or bones, it can lead to poisoning.
Symptoms of poisoning in a dog may include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, unusual salivation and general weakness.
If you suspect your dog has had grill poisoning, see your veterinarian immediately. It is best to bring a sample of what was eaten so the veterinarian can quickly determine what caused the poisoning and provide appropriate treatment.
Dogs should not eat food that has been grilled. In order to avoid accidentally eating such food, you should remove leftovers, secure the grill and keep your pet supervised while it is cooking.
Dangerous ingredients for dogs include marinade, onions, garlic, chocolate, alcohol, and bones, which can cause strangulation and intestinal perforation.
Dogs, beloved for their loyalty, often accompany their owners in cars, particularly in summer. However, this can lead to tragic outcomes. Inside a parked car, temperatures can soar above 50°C, rapidly inducing heatstroke and potentially causing circulatory system disorders in dogs.
Unlike humans who have sweat glands all over their bodies, dogs lack this mechanism for cooling down. They rely on their noses and panting to regulate body temperature. Factors such as breed, weight, skull shape, and fur length can affect how quickly a dog overheats.
It's crucial to recognize the signs of heat stroke in dogs, especially during summer. Symptoms include excessive panting, shallow breathing, very red mucous membranes, and staggering. Immediate cooling actions, such as finding shade and using a damp cloth, are essential.
Prevention is key when it comes to protecting your dog from heat stroke. Avoid strenuous activities during peak heat hours and ensure they have access to cool, shaded areas. Adjust walks and exercise routines to cooler parts of the day.
When traveling with your dog in summer, use air conditioning and avoid overcrowding the car. Plan regular breaks for your dog to drink and move around in a shaded area. Remember, the front passenger seat is not a safe place for your pet during travels.
Never leave your dog alone in a car during summer. Temperatures can reach extreme levels quickly, posing a severe risk to your pet's health. In extreme cases, even temperatures as low as 26°C can be dangerous for dogs.
If you notice a dog left in a hot car, seek help from nearby stores or bystanders. In cases where the dog appears to be in immediate danger, contacting emergency services is advisable.
In extreme situations where a dog's health is at risk, breaking the car window can be justified. Owners who endanger their pets in this way may be liable for emergency service costs and can face legal consequences under the Animal Welfare Act.
The heat in a car can cause your dog’s body to overheat, which can cause serious illness and even death. Dogs can’t sweat as much as humans, so their bodies can’t regulate temperature fast enough to keep them from overheating.
Answer: Even at a relatively low temperature of 26 degrees Celsius, the temperature inside a car can reach 32 degrees Celsius after 10 minutes and 55 degrees Celsius after 60 minutes. This can cause the dog’s body to overheat and lead to dangerous consequences.
Never leave your dog in the car in hot weather, even for a short time. If you want to leave your dog in the car, make sure the windows are open palm-wide to allow air to circulate. Place a large bowl of water for your dog to drink if he gets thirsty. You may also want to consider using the air conditioning system in the car to keep the dog cool.
Symptoms of a dog’s body overheating may include an elevated body temperature (over 39.5 degrees Celsius), extreme thirst, weakness, vomiting, diarrhea, restlessness and even loss of consciousness. If you notice these symptoms in your dog, stop exposing him to the heat immediately and see your veterinarian for medical attention.
If you see a dog left in a car in hot weather, try to find the owner of the car right away. If you can’t find the owner, call your local police or animal services and let them know about the situation. If you think the dog is in danger, you can try to open the car window to allow air to circulate. But remember, this may be illegal and dangerous, so be sure to notify the police.
There is hardly a dog that has never suffered from a musculoskeletal disorder. Particularly as pets age, bone disease becomes more and more likely to occur. That’s why it’s even more important to keep an eye on your beloved four-legged friend, especially at an advanced age. After all, some signs of cartilage deterioration are not always obvious. In order to get help quickly and therapy started in time, you should keep a close eye on your dog.
Osteoarthritis is one of the degenerative bone diseases in dogs. This means that individual body parts become increasingly limited in their function over the course of the disease (degeneration = regression). If your dog suffers from osteoarthritis, his joints become deformed over a long period of time: the cartilage wears away quickly, often the joint capsule also shrinks. The joints no longer properly adhere to each other, and the bones rub against each other, causing pain on the slightest movement.
Unhealthy stress can even cause bone-like growths. This can often be recognized by thickened knees, elbows, shoulders, spine and hips. A distinct crackling sound on movement can also indicate thickened joints. Any movement becomes painful for your dog. If left untreated, arthritis can lead to ossification of the joints.
The most common cause of osteoarthritis is wear and tear on the joints. Most patients are older dogs.. But unhealthy strain as a result of improperly healed bone fractures or an injured cruciate ligament can also contribute to osteoarthritis in dogs. Immunity and genetics are also worth considering.
So if your dog is limping, no longer climbs stairs with ease, or already struggles to stand up, you should consult your veterinarian. X-rays and a clinical exam will allow you to make a reliable diagnosis and prescribe the right treatment.
Although osteoarthritis can affect the whole body, the symptoms of hip dysplasia (HD) are concentrated in the area between your dog’s pelvis and hips. Hip dysplasia occurs when the socket is not deep enough and the femoral head (which is often too small) is not properly supported.
The joints have an unhealthy hue and painful bone deformities occur. This means that in older animals, for example, improper pelvic positioning can also lead to osteoarthritis. If puppies or young dogs already suffer from symptoms of HD, the condition is often congenital or hereditary.
With rapid growth or rapid weight gain, bone disease is also possible. However, contrary to popular belief, not only large breeds suffer from hip dysplasia, but also small dogs and sometimes even cats (e.g. Maine Coon).
How to recognize hip dysplasia in the early stages of development?
Because of the pain, your dog’s freedom of movement is naturally limited. If you notice that your pet is experiencing pain at a young age, it’s time to take action. What to look out for:
Already between the fourth and sixth month, the hips of affected animals differ in stability from healthy peers. But the final diagnosis must be made by a veterinarian.
Herniated discs (prolapsed discs) in dogs are not uncommon either. After all, sometimes all it takes is one sudden movement and any further activity becomes torture. So if your dog won’t let you pat him on the back anymore or suddenly refuses to climb stairs on his own, he may have recently suffered a protruded disc.
In principle, all dogs can suffer from this disease, but so-called “chondrodystrophic” breeds suffer from back problems particularly often. In other words, these are animals for which breeding standards prescribe a long back, short legs and a relatively large head. These include, for example, Dachshunds, Pekingese, Cocker Spaniels, and French Bulldogs. Therefore, the pathological consequences of a slipped disc in dogs are also called “dachshund palsy”.
A dog’s spine consists of about 30 intervertebral discs. Ideally, they absorb shock and make the animal truly mobile. The intervertebral discs consist of:
If the ring is already porous, all it takes is one clumsy movement – for example, during jogging and jumping – and the gelatinous mass bulges out (protrusion) or even comes out completely (extrusion).
It usually results in painful swelling in the back, circulatory problems, inflammation or paralysis of the front and even the back legs. If the disc tissue presses on the nerves controlling the bladder or sphincter, the prolapse may also manifest as incontinence.
Like osteoarthritis, for example, a slipped disc can also be a sign of wear and tear in older dogs. Excess weight also contributes to this process. In addition, short-legged and long-haired breeds often suffer from it even before reaching old age.
A slipped disc can paralyze a dog for life. In the worst case, when the surrounding nerves are so badly damaged that the dog can no longer empty his bowels and bladder on his own, the only last step is to put him to sleep.
Therefore, you should take your dog to the veterinarian at the first suspicion of bone disease. In addition to osteoarthritis, hip dysplasia or a slipped disc, a vertebral fracture, inflammation (such as panoptitis) or tumor can also cause pain.
During the exam, the veterinarian will palpate your dog in the affected areas or examine the musculoskeletal system and then take an x-ray. If necessary, a CT scan or spinal cord examination with a contrast agent may be necessary.
Unfortunately, hip dysplasia and osteoarthritis in dogs cannot be cured. However, if the suspicion of these diseases is confirmed, there are a number of measures that can be taken to relieve the dog of at least some of the symptoms. The most common of these is, of course, drug therapy.
If your dog’s movements are not restricted and bladder and bowel functions are intact, medication may be sufficient to relieve the symptoms of a disc protrusion. If your dog’s disc is already bulging or severely worn, special exercises with a physical therapist may prevent further ossification.
Physiotherapists rely in particular on ultrasound to treat arthritis in humans: the sensor is passed over the painful area in circular motions for several minutes. Tissues are gently moved, and heat penetrates the body. Muscles and joints relax, and the pain subsides.
Warmth in any form is very helpful in treating bone ailments in dogs. Warm mats or blankets on the floor provide pain relief. Electric blankets as dog bed. are also possible, but they can easily overheat and catch fire. They need to be monitored.
Therefore, your dog should never lie unattended on an electric blanket. A red light lamp may help in some cases, such as severe pain in the hip joint. The dog should not be left alone with the lamp because of the risk of fire.
As long as the dog feels comfortable, he can lie in front of the warm lamp at a distance of about one meter. If the dog gets too warm, he will get up on his own. A dog coat is also very useful for dogs with bone ailments and joint problems: it protects damaged bones from the cold and damp. Swimming in warm water also relieves stress on the joints.
If all previous treatments have no effect (more) or the symptoms worsen, surgical intervention by a specialized veterinarian may be the last resort. Osteoarthritis and HD can partially be treated with artificial joints. If your dog is already paralyzed or suffers incontinence due to a slipped disc, parts of the discs that press on the affected nerves are mechanically removed during surgery.
However, this procedure means that the dog will be in pain for several months afterwards and may even have to learn to walk again. Since the consequences of this surgery can be long and painful for your pet, you should not take this step lightly.
Since bone diseases in dogs are often caused by wear and tear, they cannot be one hundred percent prevented. However, there are some measures that can reduce the likelihood of symptoms: Every extra pound in a dog puts strain on the joints, especially with infrequent but vigorous exercise. Consequently, a proper and healthy diet plan can already prevent bone disease.
Since muscles play an important role in maintaining the skeleton, regular exercise (in moderation) with your dog is essential. Long walks are sometimes more sensible than vigorous exercise for dogs. Dog sports (agility, jogging, disc-dogging). Especially if your dog is at risk for disc slippage, he should not put too much strain on his spine. So avoid frequent stair climbing or jumping with your dog. Also chest harness Can also relieve pressure on your dog’s cervical spine.
]]>Below we have categorized foods as harmful or toxic. As is often the case, some foods have ambiguous effects, so we’ve listed the hazardous quantities for your dog. Also, pay attention to factors such as size, age, weight and health that may affect your pet’s condition. If you suspect that your dog has eaten something suspicious and in a dangerous amount, you need to keep a close eye on him and contact your veterinarian right away.
Avocados can be used in salads and guacamole. However, in addition to the healthy essential fatty acids, it contains persin, which is absolutely poisonous to dogs: it is not only found in the core of the fruit, but also in the peel and pulp. Poisoning is usually fatal as it causes heart muscle damage, respiratory failure and dropsy.
Different kinds of grapes and sultanas are bad for our four-legged friends. Excessive consumption usually leads to stomach cramps, diarrhea, vomiting and other negative effects. Sultanas are even more dangerous because they contain higher concentrations of harmful substances. In the worst case, it leads to increased kidney function with subsequent kidney failure and hypercalcemia (excessive amounts of calcium in the blood). The exact “risk dose” is not yet known; it is assumed that about 10 g of fresh grapes per kg of dog body weight is harmful.
The pips of fruits such as cherries, apricots or plums are poisonous. They all contain cyanide, which can be fatal. Symptoms of pitting poisoning include increased salivation, vomiting, malaise and cramps. The following rule also applies here: too much is poison.
Onions and garlic, which people often use as additives in almost every dish, but they are very harmful to dogs. The toxins destroy red blood cells, which can lead to anemia in dogs and death.
You should not give broccoli. It contains a substance called isothiocyanate, which attacks and damages your dog’s digestive system. The dog’s body cannot cope with it. Keep in mind that this vegetable is only harmful when it makes up a tenth of the total food. Broccoli is very dangerous, you should not risk your dog’s health.
Everyone knows today that chocolate and cocoa are bad for dogs. Both contain theobromine, which cannot be broken down or is broken down slowly due to a lack of enzymes. Consequences of eating chocolate in dogs include increased blood pressure with constriction of blood vessels: the cause of death is often cardiac arrhythmia or cardiac arrest. The lethal dose is about 100 mg of theobromine per 1 kg of the dog’s body weight: so 60 g of milk chocolate or 8 g of dark chocolate (depending on the cocoa content) may already be too much. Never give it to dogs!
Meat is good for dogs: Of course! However, this does not apply to raw pork. It may contain the Aujeszky’s virus (pseudorabies, false rabies, infectious bulbar palsy, pruritic plague), which is absolutely fatal for dogs and cats. Therefore, you should first heat the meat to at least 80°C, this virus cannot survive at high temperatures.
Nuts are also not good for your dog’s body in large quantities because they have a very high phosphorus content. This puts a huge strain on the kidneys, so they should not be fed regularly, too often, or in large quantities. Macadamia nuts should be treated with particular caution: they are poisonous to dogs and should never be eaten by dogs.
We should know that alcohol ceases to be beneficial for us when a certain amount is exceeded, in some cases it can even be fatal. The same is true for dogs. Even small amounts of alcohol can lead to vomiting, impaired coordination and, in the worst case, a coma. Dogs suffer the same symptoms as humans, but the dog’s body requires much smaller doses.
Beverages containing caffeine, such as coffee, tea and energy drinks, are also taboo for dogs. They contain methylxanthine, which raises blood pressure and increases heart rate while lowering the neurological threshold in the brain. Similar symptoms occur as when eating chocolate.
The nicotine in tobacco is also harmful to your dog. Just 5 to 25 grams of dry tobacco is enough to kill your pet. Symptoms here are also rapid breathing and heartbeat, drooling and movement disorders. That is why you should make sure that your dog never drinks from puddles with cigarette butts in them.
Did your dog twist his ankle? If so, you would take a painkiller yourself to relieve the pain. So why not give your dog a pill? Under no circumstances should you self-medicate, because few substances that help people are also good for dogs. Poisoning from painkillers can occur quickly in a dog. Only a veterinarian should prescribe pain medication.
]]>Ticks are blood-sucking arachnids; they wait for passing prey in bushes, grass, and shrubs. When the opportunity arises, they fall or cling to an animal and crawl to a suitable spot to suck blood. Feeding on blood, they can transmit dangerous pathogens through their saliva. For example, Lyme disease or early-onset meningoencephalitis (TBE), which makes a tick bite not only painful or unpleasant, but also dangerous.
These pests are especially comfortable in warm and humid environments and are usually particularly active between March and October. However, depending on the species, they can also be active much earlier or longer, depending on the climate zone. Some mite species, such as the common wood mite, become active at temperatures just above freezing. This is why prevention and protection is not only recommended in summer.
Yes, there are tick vaccinations for your beloved four-legged friend. However, these generally do not protect against ticks, but only produce antibodies against the infectious disease Lyme disease. In general, there is nothing wrong with vaccination, of course. However, experts do not always recommend vaccination. The reason is that four-legged friends who have already been in contact with the Lyme disease pathogen can get kidney infections if they are subsequently vaccinated. Be very cautious.
Every long walk should be accompanied by a thorough examination of the animal. This is boring, but the best prevention against tick bites and related diseases. Ticks usually bite only after a few hours because they need time to get through the fur to the skin, it all depends on the thickness and length of the fur as well as the body part. Therefore, when examining an animal, you should stroke it and examine it carefully; if the coat is long, a comb will help. Most often, when bitten, the pet feels discomfort and begins to scratch, showing the place to the owner. With enough sensitivity and patience, tick control is not only useful, but it is also good for your pet.
What’s really important when removing ticks, whether with tweezers, hooks or other tools, is the importance of pulling the parasite out correctly. This requires a certain amount of skill. The tool should be disinfected and as close to the skin as possible, you need to catch it by the head without crushing the body of the tick. In this case, the tick may not be removed completely.
Another criterion is the pressure on the tick during removal, which must be sufficient to keep the tick from slipping out of the tool. If the compression force is too strong, the compressed tick may release more toxic saliva and inject it into your pet. It is necessary to pull out (slowly with force) by turning the tick counterclockwise.
If part of the tick is lodged in the animal, it is not always dangerous. As a rule, the rest will eventually come out on its own. However, if you notice that an infection has gotten into the affected area, you should see a doctor immediately and not wait for it to heal itself.
Even if you have an aversion to these pests, never try to drown the mite in oil or use glue and nail polish (remover) to kill it on the pet itself. These substances will only stress the mite, causing it to secrete more saliva into the wound, which may contain dangerous pathogens. Your pet may also feel discomfort or even pain. Treat it responsibly!
When you have removed the tick, disinfect the bite site and breathe a sigh of relief, but it is advisable to keep an eye on the bite site for a while. Especially in risk areas it can happen that the tick has already introduced harmful pathogens into the body while sucking blood. In the case of Lyme disease, for example, redness will appear around the bite site, which will increase over time; the bite site may also become inflamed. If you notice a skin reaction or changes in the animal’s behavior (some TBE virus symptoms resemble the onset of the flu – fatigue, lethargy, apathy, lack of appetite), you should definitely consult a doctor to prevent a possible infection and prevent its progression.
Spot preparations are insecticides that drip between the shoulder blades on the back of four-legged friends and spread on their own across the animal’s skin through the sweat glands. Their purpose is to both repel and remove already attached mites. Most spot preparations are not suitable for puppies and kittens because of the ingredients they contain, so adult animal tolerance should also be considered.
Before using spot preparations, the instructions for use must be followed, as each preparation has a different effect and is tolerated differently; the intervals of application may also vary greatly from one preparation to another: however, following the instructions is absolutely essential, as non-compliance increases the risk of reappearance of mites.
Anti-mite collars, which the pet wears in addition to the “regular” collar, contain insecticides and acaricides. Their active ingredients are released continuously and over a long period of time into the greasy film of the skin and coat and spread over the skin surface. Their active ingredients, as in spot-on preparations, serve to disrupt the nervous system of the mites to induce them to fall away from the host.
Tick collars are also not suitable for very young animals and can cause side effects, so even here you need to pay attention to the recommendations for use.
There are various herbal preparations that can help control mites, such as oils, sprays and lotions with combinations of herbal extracts that are supposed to have a repellent effect on mites and other pests. Check with your veterinarian for preparations.
Another example of natural tick prevention is fresh garlic in pill form. It has now been proven that regular amounts of garlic in the food changes the body odor of a four-legged friend in such a way that it becomes less attractive to mites. Care should be taken with the amount, however, as large amounts of garlic are harmful to dogs.
Protection and prevention with commercially available preparations, as well as herbal remedies, are useful in controlling mites only when used in the correct doses according to the instructions. If the dosage is high, this protection can backfire. Despite all caution, the following should be kept in mind: many of the products used are chemicals that can cause side effects such as red skin, nausea, drowsiness, hair loss and itching. Please use them only in small doses. Dangerous interactions may also occur in combination with other active ingredients.
The following needs to be clarified: Does your pet have any allergies or intolerances caused by anti-tick medications? Your veterinarian can help you decide which medication is best to use with your pet.
Another important point is that you should familiarize yourself with the general prevalence and risk of TBE infection. There are special tick distribution maps that you can buy at pharmacies in your city or find on the Internet. They show where the risk of being bitten and infected is particularly high. If you want to go on vacation in Europe, you can find tick distribution maps for your city on the Internet.
]]>In the spring and fall, when temperatures change, cats and dogs have a coat change. The old fur is shed and must be removed. This allows the skin to breathe freely and the new hair to grow back well. If old, loose hairs are left on the pet, it quickly becomes matted. Not only does this look unattractive, but it also causes skin irritations such as eczema. In principle, cats do most of the grooming themselves. Nevertheless, the owner needs to comb out the animal, as mites and other parasites can be detected, also possible hidden wounds. Similarly, the condition of the coat indicates the health of the cat or dog. Thus, changes that indicate disease can be quickly detected during grooming.
The necessary care of the coat depends greatly on its length. For short-haired breeds such as Rottweilers or Carthusians, it is enough to remove loose hair once a week with a dog comb (more often during coat renewal). For breeds like the Maine Coon, Bobtail, or Shih Tzu, it is a more time consuming process: the hair should be well combed out at least once every two or three days, and daily in the spring and fall. This can take some time, as it is sometimes not easy to remove the undercoat. In addition, there are many sprays and oils that additionally care for the dog’s coat and also protect the skin, such as against dandruff.
When you think about visiting a groomer with your dog or cat, some people have an image in their mind of dyed hair or nail clippings, but this is not always the case. For some dog breeds it makes sense to visit a professional several times a year: with scissors in trained hands you can get rid of annoying lint and hair tangles much better and faster than brushing your pet at home for hours; besides, there is less stress for the animal and human. For some breeds, such as schnauzers or dachshunds, it’s worth getting a professional haircut: this means pulling the loose hair out. Trimming is done either with a machine or with the fingers of a skilled professional.
However, once the coat is removed, care must be taken to ensure that the animal does not get sunburn, as it is no longer protected by a thick coat. In addition, Bernese mountain dogs, for example, need protection from the cold through the coat if they are regularly in the water.
Below we would like to introduce some brushes and combs and give you an idea of what is best for your four-legged friend.
Cats often do not show much enthusiasm when it comes to grooming: this may be due to the wrong brushes, which can prick the cat or cause him discomfort. A natural bristle brush is especially soft and glides nicely over your pet’s coat. Your cat is sure to love it.
For short-haired dogs who don’t like combing or brushing (the very stiff bristles irritate or scratch the skin), a grooming glove is a better choice. It massages the dog’s skin, promotes blood circulation and removes loose hair and dirt with small rubber tips.
A good solution for long-haired and short-haired cats is a furminator. With it, you can remove almost all the hair that has fallen out of the pet without damaging the top layer. This way, the cat will always look well groomed.
The best alternative for your dog would be a metal comb for long hair. In the case of matted hair, special defelters can be used. They are ideal for simply untangling and tearing through the hair, thus taking care of the top and bottom layer at the same time.
Totally new on the market ionizing cleaning brush. Battery-operated, it generates an electric and simultaneously antistatic magnetic field and works like a vacuum cleaner. It attracts dirt and loose hairs and thanks to the separation plate that quickly removes old hairs. In addition, the brush eliminates unpleasant hair odors because the ions combine with bad ions and neutralize odors.
Speaking of smells: bathe your four-legged friend only if it is unavoidable. This is especially true for dogs, sometimes it is necessary when they get dirty in something bad smelling. Be sure to use shampoo for cats and dogs, as it is especially gentle on sensitive skin.
]]>